Knit Vs. Woven Fabrics, Which Is Best?

Imagine a fabric in your head; does it stretch? If so, it may be a knit. This question, alone, can tell me so much about a garment and how it is constructed. When creating a pattern to cut and sew, it is imperative that it is designed specifically for a knit or woven. When creating custom pieces, this is the first design question I ask.

Overall, fabrics can be broken down into a few different categories, knits, wovens, and non-wovens.

Knit fabrics

Knits are very popular, as most fabrics that stretch are knits. Knits have the advantage of being very comfortable, and can stretch to fit different people without alterations. These materials have quickly gained popularity as demand for one-size-fits-many garments have grown. Some knits are thin, like a tee shirt; and some knits are thick, like a sweater. To create a knit, one or more yarn is looped together. While this fabric was strictly used for casualwear years ago, during the last few seasons knit formal dresses have been trending.

How to spot a knit –stretchy material, minimal tailoring, two rows of stitching at the hem, looped threads (when looking closely)

This material is great for tee shirts, athletic wear, sundresses, bodycon dresses, undergarments, sweaters, etc.

Examples include jersey, most laces, stretch velvet, tulle, knit terrycloth, knit fleece, ponte de roma, etc.

Woven fabrics

These fabrics usually do not stretch, and are great for providing structure. To create these fabrics, two or more yarns are woven together. Woven fabrics are a must for corsets and heavily tailored designs, as a knit would not keep its shape. Most vintage dresses were created from woven fabrics, as knits have only recently become popular for formalwear. These fabrics are ideal for ballgowns, as knits will stretch out due to a ballgown’s weight (excluding tulle).

How to spot a woven – material keeps its shape when gently stretched, it is tailored, zero or one row of stitching at the hem, intertwined threads (when looking closely)

This material is great for corsets, tailored designs, suits, button-down shirts, most wedding dresses, etc.

Examples include satin, denim, taffeta, crepe, flannel, organza, chiffon, charmeuse, etc.

Non-Wovens

This is the “other” category of fabrics. They are created in any manner that isn’t looped like a knit, or interlaced like a woven. Some non-wovens are organic, like Kombucha fabric or leather; some non-wovens are felted, like interfacing and felt; and some non-wovens are poured, like vinyl.

How to spot a non-woven – material keeps its shape when gently stretched, it is tailored, they fabric does not fray (it may not even be hemmed), felted threads or no threads at all (when looking closely)

These materials are great for various purposes. Some non-wovens are used as supportive materials, while others are used as fashion fabrics.

Examples include felt, interfacing, leather, vinyl, etc.

Which fabric do you prefer to wear? Let me know in the comments!